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A secret getaway in the heart of a legendary bay
Ever since its discovery by Christopher Columbus in 1493, this string of nine islands – where only bicycles, electric cars and scooters are permitted – has cultivated a fiercely distinct identity in the heart of the Caribbean. From volcanic hills to crystal-clear waters, from local crafts to the open sea, a trip to Les Saintes follows the gentle rhythm of the trade winds.
Les Saintes: a travelogue
- Facts and figures: 9 volcanic islets, of which only Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Bas are inhabited.
- Languages: French and Saintois Creole.
- Must-read: Éloges by Saint-John Perse, for its musical descriptions of the wind and the salt.
- Getting around: on foot, by bike… or in an electric golf trolley – undoubtedly the most practical way to make the most of your visits in 48 hours.
- A historic legacy: the archipelago was discovered by Christopher Columbus on All Saints’ Day 1493, and was subsequently named Los Santos in honour of the feast of All Saints.
Day 1: Terre-de-Haut: the basalt sentinel
As soon as you step off the bus, you’re immersed in the village’s unique atmosphere, where the absence of cars preserves the tranquillity of the flower-lined alleyways. Looking up towards the Morne Mire hill, you can make out the stone silhouette of Fort Napoléon, a truly historical lookout facing out to sea. Its Vauban-style ramparts house a museum dedicated to island life, as well as a botanical garden where numerous iguanas bask in the sun.
The village centre affords a perfect opportunity for a stroll amongst the brightly-coloured wooden houses. Explore the narrow lanes and step inside the boat-building workshop, where saintoises are still crafted: these are boats with tapered bows, designed to navigate the currents of the Les Saintes canal. You’ll find yourself thoroughly indulging as you gaze out over Marigot Bay, savouring a delicious tourment d’amour.
The tourment d’amour… a secret indulgence
A small tartlet with a moist sponge centre on a shortcrust pastry base, the tourment d’amour traditionally contains a filling of coconut spread. Although now also available in guava or pineapple flavours, it remains a symbol of anticipation: legend has it that fishermen’s wives used to make this sweet treat to ease their anxiety whilst waiting for their husbands to return from the sea. This delicious secret that can still be discovered today as you wander the narrow lanes that are home to the market traders in the village.
Terre-de-Haut: the island of a thousand twists and turns
From coral gardens to hilltop viewpoints, plan your own short visit.
Relaxed excursions through the turquoise waters above the coral reefs
Glide silently along in a kayak to uncover the secrets of Terre-de-Haut Bay. An opportunity to get up close — close enough to touch with your eyes — an ecosystem that is now within easy reach. Among the coastal attractions is the astonishing ‘Maison Bateau’: this ocean liner-style residence, designed by artist Adolphe Catan, seems to be moored to the hillside for eternity. Underwater and right before your eyes unfolds a never-ending spectacle: the coral gardens where sponges and tropical fish thrive.
A seaside getaway amongst the unspoilt islets
The archipelago reveals its wildest side through these uninhabited islets. Guarding the bay of Terre-de-Haut, the îlet à Cabrit islet, through its overgrown vegetation, reveals glimpses of the ruins of Fort Joséphine and its former quarantine station. We then head south towards Grand Îlet: in this protected nature reserve, frigatebirds dominate the sheer cliffs, whilst turtles swim gracefully through the clear waters lapping at their shores. This is your opportunity to experience the wilder side of the Saintes.
Snorkeling at the foot of Sugarloaf
A symbol of Terre-de-Haut, this basalt monolith commands attention with its majesty. Formed from an ancient volcanic flow, the Sugar Loaf plunges its dark rock formations into a cove of unrivalled purity. Moor at the little beach nestling at its foot. Just a few strokes are all it takes to set off on a wonderful snorkelling trip to explore the coral walls that stretch out from the foot of the volcanic peak. These are moments of pure bliss, combining a swim with the chance to discover an exceptional seascape.
Exploration of the wreck of the tugboat Lynndy
Its metal silhouette rests just a few metres down, facing the Anse Mire. Once a coastal cargo ship that was deliberately run aground following damage, the Lynndy has, over the years, become an unintentional work of art, now colonised by sponges and tropical fish. There is an incredible abundance of life for you to explore on a snorkelling trip. This unusual destination is just a handful of paddle strokes from the shore, where nature is poetically reimagining the remnants of human civilisation.
Hike to the top of Morne Morel
From Marigot Bay, a stony path – accessible to all – winds its way up through the red gum trees and frangipani trees. At an altitude of 136 metres, the summit of Morne Morel reveals the remains of the Caroline Battery – a former 19th-century coastal defence site. Now it’s your turn to enjoy this fantastic 360° panorama: with the trade winds blowing gently, your gaze takes in Marie-Galante, Dominica and the entire archipelago before settling on the tranquil Pompierre beach.
Swimming break in a secret cove
From Pompierre Beach, sheltered from the swell by its rocky barrier, to the unspoilt Anse Crawen, the island offers a mosaic of coastal landscapes. In Pompierre, the absence of moorings preserves the tranquillity of a natural bay bordered by a vast coconut grove. The more secluded Anse Rodrigue and Anse Crawen can be discovered as you wander along the coastal paths, revealing a ‘far end of the world’ atmosphere amidst fine sand and volcanic formations. Explore the multitude of hideaways in which you can enjoy absolute tranquillity whilst gazing out at the blue Caribbean Sea.
Calm returns to Terre-de-Bas
A short crossing takes you to Terre-de-Bas, the archipelago’s most secluded inhabited island. Here, life slows down, a world away from the hustle and bustle of its bigger sister. In the Petite-Anse neighbourhood – an authentic fishing village – the Church of Saint-Nicolas houses a vault shaped like an upturned ship’s hull: a masterpiece of marine carpentry. As you wander along the paths, you may still come across the few remaining salako craftsmen, painstakingly weaving headdresses born of a centuries-old tradition.
From Indochina to the Saintes: the odyssey of the salako
Passed down from sailors who came from Tonkin in the 19th century, this hat is the symbol of Terre-de-Bas. Its manufacture requires extreme precision: strips of bamboo – the core of the stem, known as ‘moha’ – are woven into spokes before being covered with cotton fabric. Designed for protection against sea spray and the heat, it has now become a symbol of a Saintes identity that is proudly preserved.
The stroll continues towards the Grande-Anse beach. As pelicans scan the sea from their perches on the rocks, iguanas can be spotted along the path leading to the ruins of the Fidelin pottery works: a reminder of the island’s past, when it was once renowned for its sugar moulds and ceramic jars. The day draws to a close with a meal of grilled fish, enjoyed in the shade of a flamboyant tree, to the slow rhythm of this unspoilt land.
Photo credits:©PONANT Ludivine Tessier; Christopher Poplawski; StudioPONANT/Thibault Garnie ; iStock; Cc-by-sa-3.0 /Asram
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Set sail for the most beautiful islands in the tropics
