Clint Grech and Laetitia Ouspointour in conversation

Pairing flavours in the Mediterranean

How to introduce Clint Grech and Laetitia Ouspointour? He is a Michelin-starred chef at De Mondion in Malta and the keeper of a multicultural culinary heritage. She is a winemaker, oenologist and sommelier, as well as a teller of stories and sharer of flavours. This passionate duo have been invited aboard a PONANT EXPLORATIONS gastronomic cruise across the Mediterranean, as part of a partnership with Relais & Châteaux. Here, they share their vision for gastronomy.

What fuels your creativity on a daily basis?

Clint Grech: I’m lucky enough to enjoy an incredible view of Malta from my restaurant terrace atop the fortifications of Mdina. I can see the farmers in their fields in the morning, then the twinkling lights of the towns at night. This landscape is in constant motion and it supercharges my cooking. Its colours, textures and seasons are harmoniously reflected on the plate.

Laetitia Ouspointour: Wine fascinates me because it’s the only thing people will go to any length for. Given the vagaries of the weather, they plant vines in incredible locations and build low walls facing the sea, all with no guarantee of a harvest. This dedication makes my job very meaningful. It makes me think of my grandparents [Ms Ouspointour is the granddaughter of winegrowers in the Bordeaux region], and the fascination of watching them take care of a plant to create something magical. For me, tasting a wine is like bringing a landscape to life.

How do you bring together traditional heritage and daring modernity?

C.G.: Malta has been at the crossroads of many great civilisations and inherited an amazing mosaic of cultures. My cooking is a mirror image of this history. It’s a misto, a blend made up of all kinds of spices. I like to create a dialogue between this heritage and the present. I revisit traditional dishes such as aljotta, a Maltese fish soup, or octopus stew to give them a sophisticated touch, without ever betraying their precious Mediterranean origins.

L.O.: I see myself as a conduit. As the heiress to a family estate in Bordeaux, I am deeply attached to my heritage. But I’d think it a shame if this fascinating world stayed the preserve of a small elite. Hence my desire to build bridges: I juggle with traditions to translate them into an accessible, sensory language for a passionate and demanding audience.

At the Michelin-starred De Mondion restaurant in Malta’s The Xara Palace – Relais & Châteaux hotel, chef Clint Grech has interpreted Maltese culinary identity with a sense of modernity and refinement. Here, he brings out the best in local produce, particularly from his own Xara Gardens.

What does the idea of passing on your skills mean to you?

C.G.: When I hire a young chef, I look beyond the technical side; what matters most to me is their personal qualities. I value humility, discipline and passion. I’m looking for inquisitive minds with a real hunger for learning and a great ability to listen. But what matters most is being able to see that spark, that potential which, over time, will turn them into great chefs.

L.O.: My workshops are often linked to emotions and focus on the aromas people are sensitive to. So, if there were just one thing I could pass on to help people feel more relaxed about wine, it would be to enjoy yourself and trust your feelings. Get rid of all those preconceived ideas and concentrate on what you love and who you are.

What do you think is the key to a successful food and wine pairing?

L.O.: When the food and wine reveal more about each other, making them even more beautiful in the process. It’s a delicate, meticulous balance to strike which rests heavily on textures. My approach is to use this knowledge to foster a genuine dialogue between the dish and the wine. It’s a conversation where everyone has to find their place. The chef is always the star, and my role is to suggest the best rejoinder. 

C.G.: I see it as a creative dialogue that forges an unforgettable experience. While the dish is often the starting point, sometimes a great wine opens up new perspectives. A glass of champagne served as an aperitivo, for example, can set the tone and inspire the flavours that follow. A wine can absolutely be the spark for a whole new creation.

Winemaker, oenologist and sommelier Laetitia Ouspointour founded L.O. Wine to share her passion through workshops that eschew the usual wine hang-ups. Her triple expertise enables her to tell a wine’s story from vine to glass.

Beyond the tasting experience, what is the memory you want to leave your guests with?

C.G.: I’d like them to take away a memory imbued with the Mediterranean, paying tribute to the sea, its flavours and its soul. 

L.O.: When people say to me “we had fun but we learned new things too”, I know it’s mission accomplished. Shared pleasure is the only thing that counts – and the greatest reward of all.

Photo credits: De Mondion; @lowine.

Explore the finest flavours of the shores of the Mediterranean