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In the footsteps of Rivo Rarivosoa, a Malagasy nature guide
A trip to Madagascar means being willing to slow down. And to feel. Accompanied by Rivo Rarivosoa, a nature guide for PONANT EXPLORATIONS, the island reveals itself all the more through the senses, encounters and stopovers along the way, during which travellers step away from the familiar to enjoy a more intimate experience of the region.
An island to experience
It all begins with a visual immersion. With one dominant colour: green. The deep green of the forests of the East, the ever-present foliage of the humid regions, but also the green that appears beneath the rough bark of the baobab trees when you scratch it lightly. A texture that’s almost soft to the touch, quite unexpected.
In the markets, it’s the smells that draw people in first. Rivo Rarivosoa describes the scent of fried prawns wafting between the stalls, heralding the flavours of everyday cuisine. “It reminds me of my childhood, but also of all the villages I’ve passed through and the people I’ve met”, says the nature guide. As evening falls, the island takes on a whole new look. In the mountains, beneath a star-filled sky, the sounds of crickets fill the forests. It’s an almost hypnotic atmosphere.
Nosy Hara Island, Madagascar
Lemur in Majunga, Madagascar
A blue wooden hut on stilts, surrounded by coconut palms and a papaya tree, in Madagascar
Portrait of a woman in Nosy Komba, Madagascar
3 ports of call beyond the expected
1. Nosy Be, markets and local expertise
Known for its beaches and tropical vegetation, Nosy Be reveals many other facets to those who venture off the beaten track. Rivo Rarivosoa enjoys inviting travellers to lose themselves in the maze of local markets, where they can meet local craftspeople. With raffia basketry and Richelieu embroidery reflecting the diversity of influences, the island showcases a vibrant and deeply multicultural way of life.
2.The south-west, at the pace of village life
In the south-west, some landing sites accessible by zodiac allow you to reach the heart of the coastal villages directly. Here, the experience is all about meeting the locals. Visitors will discover the traditional craft of boatbuilding from Malagasy balsa wood, a very light timber. They can also watch the fishermen preparing for their trips out to sea, and get a glimpse of a way of life shaped by the ocean, which dictates its own rhythm.
3. Masoala, immersion in the primary forest
On the Masoala peninsula, nature takes centre stage! The primary forest there is dense, humid and almost enveloping. The paths wind through lush vegetation where every sound catches your attention: birdsong, the rustling of leaves, and the buzz of unseen insects. A complete sensory immersion that encapsulates the Madagascar experience in a nutshell.
Did you know?
Madagascar is home to several worlds in a single area
In the east, the tropical forests receive heavy rainfall almost all year round (nearly 6,000 mm!). To the west, the landscape becomes drier, until you reach the remarkable thorny forests of the south. This diversity of climates and ecosystems is reason enough to call Madagascar “the island-continent”.
Biodiversity that is unique in the world
Nearly 5% of the world’s plant and animal species are found in Madagascar. Lemurs, baobab trees, birds and endemic plants make up an exceptional natural heritage. Many of the species seen on the island are found nowhere else, making Madagascar a real laboratory of living things.
A culture at the crossroads of Africa and Asia
Malagasy identity has been shaped by waves of migration from Africa, Asia, the Arabian Peninsula and Europe. This diversity is reflected in the people, traditions, architecture and crafts. Influences vary from region to region, but the island’s inhabitants are united by a shared language and a strong sense of hospitality.
Through the eyes of
Rivo Rarivosoa, a born guide
Born in Antananarivo, where he lives and works, Rivo Rarivosoa has been travelling the length and breadth of Madagascar for over thirty years. With a passion for nature and local cultures, he has been a PONANT EXPLORATIONS nature guide for several years. This natural sciences graduate offers a thoughtful perspective on his country, which he believes one must immerse oneself in, guided by a single principle: “Madagascar isn’t a place to visit, it’s a place to be experienced.”
1. Why is Madagascar known as the island continent?
Because here, everything changes from one region to another. The landscapes, climate, cultures and ecosystems vary greatly depending on whether you travel north, south, east or west. Madagascar is an island, but it feels as though you’re travelling through several different worlds at once.
2. What are Madagascar’s most iconic animals?
Many will tell you about the lemur, which remains by far the best known and most commonly seen. But personally, I am really fond of the fossa, Madagascar’s largest carnivore. It is an extremely agile animal, which is active both day and night and able to live in trees as well as on the ground. Before the arrival of humans, it was the island’s top predator.
3. What is your fondest memory as a guide?
I remember the day I saw a drongo for the first time, which we call the ‘king of birds‘ here. Ever since I was a child, I’d imagined a spectacular, multicoloured bird. And when I spotted it in the forest, it turned out to be a simple little black bird. This contrast really struck me and, in my view, serves as a reminder that Madagascar always has surprises in store.
4. What is the relationship between the Malagasy people and the sea?
For many communities living near the coast, the sea is their lifeline. Among the Vezo people, for example, the men go out fishing and the women then sell the fish at the market. Their entire culture, beliefs and traditions are linked to the ocean and its vicissitudes.
5. What advice would you give to a traveller visiting your beloved island for the first time?
You have to come with an open mind. Everything is different here: the pace of life, the way of doing things, of observing, of interacting with others, and the relationship with time. Madagascar is the land of “mora mora“, which means gently, slowly. If you accept that, then you’ll have a much richer and more authentic experience.
Photo credits: ©Studio PONANT / A. Herbrecht / Margot Sib; ©Studio PONANT / S. Rodgers
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